Dundas, who opened her first scoop shop back when an after-dinner ice cream run usually meant a plunge into a bodega freezer or a trip to a dreary chain, the artisan ice cream boom has been the vindication of a vision. Dundas has been in the field for 14 years, but I’ve known her even longer - we grew up in the same Boston suburb - and through her have seen how ruthless selling organic banana cream pie ice cream in biodegradable bowls can be.įor Ms. Small, indie producers like Jennifer Dundas, the co-founder of Blue Marble in Brooklyn, have driven the innovation in the past decade. Artisan ice cream - a “squishy” term, she said, that usually refers to product with less air and more fat but “mostly just means ‘fancy’” - is growing even faster than mainstream ice cream and is considered the industry’s future. It has never been a better time to eat ice cream or a more cutthroat time to try to sell it.įueled by pandemic trends of “at-home comfort” and “anytime eating,” the $7 billion industry grew 17 percent in 2020, after roughly 2.4 percent annual growth over the previous decade, said Jennifer Mapes-Christ of the market research firm Packaged Facts. That is traditional grocery store wisdom, mainly so the product won’t melt in the cart as it winds through the aisles.įor shoppers worn down by the journey through a hangar-size Whole Foods, it’s also a reward: an ultradecadent bounty in an ever-multiplying variety of daring and imaginative flavors. Put the ice cream near the cash registers.
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